Meet: Emily Katz Design

I promised I would share more about the infinitely talented Emily Katz, and here it is!

I knew something was different about the unassuming little stall on one wall of the giant Ft. Mason hangar that housed last week's Renegade Craft Fair.  I had been so bombarded with cutesy appliques, screenprinted tees, cards and knicknacks that my eyes were swimming.  

I'm not sure what drew me in first - the poetically neutral palette of her collection, or the sunny demeanor of Emily herself.  As soon as I flipped through the racks, I could see the quality, the adept cuts and proportions, the fine, unfamiliar fabrics she used.  Frankly, I was surprised she was showing at the festival at all, because it certainly felt as though she were a master moving among amateurs.

As Bhumi and I chatted her up, I heard a little more about how Emily got started (six years ago in Portland), some of her other talents (singing, making music), and things that inspire her.  She was very patient as I hemmed and hawed over the "wish" top, an incredibly wearable trapeze shape with a swooping drape, and a nice structure--given by the interesting blend of hemp and Tencel fiber that she uses.  At that price though, the purchase was inevitable.  We tried on some other pieces - Bhumi fit well into this pleat-front French terry sheath that made her look like an Indian Audrey Hepburn, but ultimately decided on a single scarf despite my cajoling.

All in all, an amazing discovery!

A Test of Efficiency/Efficacy: Diary of sh*t I bought in the last 4 months.

Posted simultenously to stephanie.posterous.com

I feel like I'm spilling all my secrets. 

Don't think for one minute that, with all my mooning about beautiful shoes and things, I somehow lose track or control of my spending or, as I've heard some people say, "have nothing to show for it."  Au contraire, I know exactly where every penny has gone and try to make purchases through careful deliberation (doesn't always work, of course).

I definitely make mistakes - I'm still a fledgling shopper, still learning the ropes, still buying things I regret later (or immediately).  I know it will take some time, but what I'm really working towards is developing my taste, my ability to quickly assess fit, style, quality, and value--understanding what I like and what I don't like, what works and what won't, slowly getting more confident making this assessment, and slowly becoming faster at it.  

I've come a long way in the last few years--it all started when I realized that I was a) buying pretty stuff I didn't wear and b) not wearing it out of laziness, defaulting to jeans and t-shirts, and, even worse, c) not wearing it because I lacked confidence/self esteem.  I realized I didn't wear half the stuff I bought because I did not like calling attention to myself.  I have been very lucky to have always worked in offices that allow a lot of room for creativity.  I realized that if I could work up the nerve to pull off some of the stuff I bought, and get used to the attention it would bring, perhaps that gumption would seep into other areas of my life.  I also realized that it would be fun to to approach style as another form of self-expression.  As Garry tells me, "wear it and hold your head up!"

I digress.

As I said, I keep close tabs on my credit card statement, the wad of receipts in my wallet, and the accumulation of "stuff" around my room.  I thought it might be a good exercise to do a recap/roundup of what I bought in the last few months, much of which you may have seen on this blog, along with my thoughts on each item.

April: Some may remember I gave up shopping for Lent.  As soon as Easter came, I bought stuff. A crapton of it.
  • Yellow bag: My first real-leather handbag.  From Marshall's. Besides being a steal, I use it almost every day.  Definite winner.
  • World According to Jess "crossword" case: It is a fantastic overnighter.  I love the separate compartment on the bottom for shoes.
  • Black hoodie, gray sweater, blue top from the Gap: The hoodie replaced one that was falling apart and will come in handy as soon as autumn hits.  The gray sweater I ruined in the dryer - but at least it was only $10 and may make some cozy armwarmers.  The blue top I absolutely love.
  • Shoshanna floral print dress: Huge mistake.  It is sized a true 4 (as opposed to the generous sizing at most chain stores), so I can't even zip it up.  I can't decide if I want to donate it, resell it, try to alter it to fit me, or lose a crapton of weight.
  • Franco Sarto clogs: I love them.  They were totally affordable, the grommets on the side add edge to any outfit, and they are so versatile!
  • RSVP silver sandals: They served their purpose (my friend's wedding).  At $13, does it really matter if I ever wear them again?
  • Frye lace-up boots: One of my most expensive shoe purchases to date.  I like them a lot, but still can't figure out how to wear them. (Help!)
May: This was a month of scouring eBay and traveling.
  • Cotton "tropical toile" sundress: I bought this dress from the fantastic Moule in the Pearl District of Portland, a fantastic purchase from an amazing retail store.  It was a one-of-a-kind sample, made either by Rachel Mara or Michelle Mason (the designer later decided to turn the design into a top instead of a dress).  It has a balloon-y silhouette, is light as air, and I love everything from the pattern of the toile to the black bands that define it at the top and bottom.  The icing on the cake was that it was heavily discounted, and there's no sales tax in Portland.  Score.
  • Black fedora: a random buy at the Saturday Market in Portland.  I like the way it looks/fits but have not figured out where on earth I can wear it with a straight face.
  • Vintage Selby loafers: From one of my favorite sellers on Etsy.  At $10 they were a steal, and I love the extra-long tongues and little gold hardware.
  • Vintage striped secretary blouse: It was also a steal, but it's a bit shapeless.  I need to figure out how to wear it without looking like a referee or a flight attendant.
  • Random jewelry: All purchased on eBay.  You all witnessed the deliberation over the owl, but the blue orchid was an unexpected find, and I was surprised at how much I love that splash of blue against everything.  The bracelets are fine, not super excited about them.
  • Custom pencil skirt from Louise Hedley: I was disappointed with the purchase and ended up giving the Etsy seller neutral feedback (she was very nice/lovely to work with but the color and fit was just not what I expected based on the item description).  Haven't worn it out but maybe one of these days.  Not worth the $ at all.
June: Showed a bit more restraint this month.
  • Plaid "farmer girl" shirt: I can't for the life of me remember the name of the designer even though I chatted with her for a few minutes at SF's Indie Mart.  She very cleverly cuts off the sleeves of things and arranges them in flower patterns on the chest.  I was debating between this and a vest made out of a repurposed blazer, but Garry was right that I would wear this more.  I do, and I love it!
  • Eva Brann cream crochet cardigan: It was the one thing I wanted to buy in all of Beacon Hill when I visited Boston last month.  The preppy, yacht-club style of New England does not jive with me.  I was surprised to find this unexpectedly romantic piece at Boutique Eskil.  It was expensive, but it's beautiful, you can't go wrong with a pretty white cardigan, and there's no sales tax in Boston.  Score.
July:  So far.  This does not include the sh*t I ordered last week from Anthro.  Including the enchanting dark bouquet dress.
  • Look from London plaid tights: The only thing at Jeremy's SF worth buying.  Sushmita and I thought Jeremy's was like a big, disorganized, and appallingly expensive version of Ross.  There were very few good deals to be had, and the selection was awful.  But I salvaged the day with this quirky find - they are super comfortable and lots of fun (and not pricey!).
  • Emily Katz "wish" top: One of the very few things I was moved to buy at the giant DIY flea market that was the Renegade Craft Fair.  Not only was this sample hugely discounted, but I got to chat with Emily herself for a while.  I'll be featuring her in a later post.
  • Elie Tahari snakeskin sandals: You already know all about this one.  They fit all right, but one major negative is that the slingback slips so easily off my heels.  I don't know if I should try to return them, if I just need to break them in, if I should get some kind of heel insert, or if I just need to totter around like a deer in them.

Meet: The Leather Jacket Girl

There are few things we love more than supporting local independent artists.  So a couple weekends ago, Sushmita and Stephanie made a hop skip and a jump over to Indie Mart, sort of an outdoor DIY-festival-slash-hipster-convention.  We were a bit disappointed by the small size of the gathering, but made up for it by hanging out for a good half hour with Monique of Gypsies and Lords.

Monique designs unique leather jackets made from hard-to-find materials treated in various difficult-to-replicate ways.  That didn't stop me from asking all kinds of questions about where she sources the leather (exotic locales like South America) and where she gets the jackets manufactured (in China, from the same guy who does leatherwork for some of the top fashion houses in Paris and Milan).  I was smitten by two of her designs in particular, one hand-painted blazer with rabbit-fur lapels (PETA be damned!) and one more down-to-earth number with an asymmetrical zipper.  The fit was amazing; the designs one of a kind, or limited edition.  The only thing that stopped me was wanting a jacket in a lighter color.

Check out more of her stuff on her website.  She has her niece model everything because "she has a-t-t-i-t-u-d-e." Except the last picture, which is Monique herself wearing the rabbit-fur blazer.

DIY (or not): Obi-style corset belt

I don't remember the name of the etsy seller who first turned me on to obi-style wrap belts (unfortunately, she is now inactive), but I clearly remember the belts themselves: neat lines, intricately patterned Japanese fabrics printed in blacks, browns, reds and golds with sakura all over them.  They seem very forgiving of all body types, as the wrap style allows you to adjust them for a very snug fit (and will hide multiple pooches).

They made such a stunning, dramatic statement that I wanted to buy one really badly before I realized: this should be one of the easiest projects for the beginning seamstress, one who, say, had a reliable machine and yards of brightly colored fabrics at her disposal, and was ready to move on from cushions and curtains (like me!).  Since then it's been on that vague, someday-I'll-get-to-it list of things to do.

I recently had another nudge in this direction when I came across an even more inventive version by desirapesta, which looks a bit more like a corset.  But no more difficult to make, I think, if one measures and cuts carefully.  Then I totally fell in love with the ones made out of leather at LedThread...they are so sleek, so brightly colored, and so gorgeous!

I decided I really want to make myself an obi-style corset belt or three... first using the batik fabric I picked up in Kuala Lumpur, and then maybe if I can get my hands on some scrap leather and a tougher needle for my sewing machine!  I'll keep you guys posted on the results.

"Oh, Geo": Speaking of bespoke...

Ok, I know I have to find some other source of inspiration than etsy, all the time, but I'm on a roll here.  I eyed this skirt a long time ago in sohomode's shop, and it sat there for a while without getting picked up and I thought, is everyone crazy, because this skirt is totally fantastic!  So bold! I didn't buy it because of the whole no shopping for Lent thing.  Plus, the original skirt was way too small for me.

But months later when someone finally snapped it up, I was crushed!  I still wanted it.  So I messaged Louise Hedley, the designer, and she very gamely let me know that she had found just one last scrap of fabric just like this one (it was supposed to be one-of-a-kind) and could make it up in my measurements.  After a lot of back and forth on what, exactly, my measurements were, I finally dropped the payment today.  $60 for a bespoke skirt, I think, especially "limited edition" like this, is not bad at all.  I love the contrast of purple belt and bright yellow geometric print, and as long as I was ordering custom, I asked Louise if she could find a lime green fabric to use as the lining, because that would be fun!

Louise makes this pencil skirt in a range of prints and fabrics... check out the link above.  As for me, I am thinking of asking Louise for a knee length, simple A-line red tartan wool skirt (yes I'm already thinking of fall), cut on a bias.

The most kickass necklaces I've seen in a while.

I finally discovered the magic that is Etsy Alchemy, the feature in which you dream up something your heart desires, you post it, and people bid to make it for you.  It sort of hearkens back to the old days of bespoke and custom couture (except--it's totally affordable).  I put out a request for someone to make the grape cluster necklace I missed in an eBay auction last week, and within a few hours I got like 9 bids for it.

One of the artists who offered to make me the necklace was Bejeweled Bespoke, and when I peeked at her shop I was blown away by some of these awesome, bold designs.  My two favorites were a) her feather chandelier necklace (feathers hanging from 12" chains!) and the b) necklace of a million falling leaves.  I also love her "piece de resistance" chandelier earrings, even though chandeliers are so 2004 and I don't have my ears pierced.  It's all so poetic, and so dramatic, I can hardly stand it!

Meet Bonzie, Pt. 1: Which skirt should I get?

Bonzie is an independent Irish "aunt-niece design duo with a love for an olde worlde time worn aesthetic."  I first discovered them on etsy (of course) months ago and have been in love with their designs ever since.  Bonzie is best known for its boleros, which I'll feature in Part 2, but if I were to get one thing for myself, it would have to be one of these fantastic upcycled skirts.

Combining ladylike ruffles with traditional plaids, hard-edged leather and hardware, they suggest a bit of steampunk, a bit of Scottish kilt, a bit of wayward pirate wench, and all romance.  Problem is, they come in many colors and are customizable, so I'm having trouble deciding on just one style.


Bonzie and Ger were so cute in their response: "Thanks ever so much for your kind words about our work, we are chuffed that you enjoy our designs and would be delighted for you to...be featuring us!"

Fashion Friday: Whatever happened to World According to Jess?

Yes, more bags.  I remember this label being huge about 5-7 years ago, though I can't recall where I first heard of it.  Back then, there were a few pieces in her line I thought were adorable, fun and playful, but a bit too much to pay for vinyl.  Curious, I checked back to see if she had anything new going on.

I was surprised to see that there were pretty much no new items added in the last few years, and every item is on sale.  When I saw the prices though, I was shocked.  $30 for what used to be a $200 weekend bag?  You can bet I'm going to snap me up a couple, but more than that, I wonder what ever happened to the designer.  Did she give up?  Move on?  Decide to focus on being a new mommy? Why didn't she ever release new designs? 

So mysterious.  Anyway, there aren't many left - check them out on the World According to Jess website.